I remember the first time I saw beauty for the first time that I could fully acknowledge it. Yes, I was blessed enough to grow up in a beautiful state, in a house sitting on a bluff with an amazing view, and with a family who had the means and appreciation of nature to access and see other views as we travelled around the state and country, but sometimes you take those things that you see everyday for granted. Or maybe it was that I was too young and immature to grasp the fact that the world is bigger than me and the beauty that comes with its grandioseness. Whatever the reason was, I distinctly remember the sunrise on top of Mt Heart Attack at JH Ranch that Tuesday morning the summer after my freshman year in college. It was mind-blowing and I couldn’t really articulate my wonder of my revelation that the world is beautiful and so incredibly large.
Those blinders were taken off during Semana Santa, and the beauty of this holiday and the country’s traditions surrounding it have completely blown me away. I can’t even begin to explain it all in writing to the extent that I would like; there is just so much! And, furthermore, I know that my experiences are only the tip of the iceberg of beauty and tradition. I’ll attempt to explain the amazingness by separating it by each special day:
Weeks before - Antigua had so many processions. Every Friday every Catholic church has a procession. The churches take turns having an afombra (that is absolutely gorgeous!) and a gorgeous display of a scene from a part of the Bible. Pictured here is the Prodigal Son; my favorite Bible story. Amazing. 
Palm SundayHaving been my favorite holiday since I was wee, I was quite excited for Palm Sunday. We (the YAV volunteers) were in Santiago at Lago Atitlan and heard from our random guide the day before that there was going to be a procession at 10. Thinking we understood Guatemalan time, we went into town at 10:30 to discover that we missed the procession. We did, however, follow the evidence of the procession (flowers and sawdust) through the ridiculously crowded market and up to the church. The church service was outside and the courtyard was PACKED!. The priest and altar children were on a stage framed in bamboo. To the left there was a marimba band with a choir of women who sang in excellent Guatemalan style. There were a handful of benches in front of the stage, and then everyone else was scattered around the park on statues, standing, in the shade of the buildings, sitting on the ground. It was so powerful and beautiful to be surrounded by that many passionate people. Men and women in full traditional clothing held their cowboy hats and clothes above their head for shade as children ran around adding life to the beautiful spread of colors. People had palms in their hands, the cross on the stage was made of palms, it was Palm Sunday at its finest. That Sunday marked the kickoff to the most important week in their tradition and the excitement was palpable. 
The night before Maundy Thursday
I put myself out for foster care/adoption during Semana Santa because I wanted to learn the traditions from a family’s, not a tourist’s, point of view. Tina’s family took me in so after Tina, Malea, Kyra and I spent additional days at the Lake after our YAV retreat, Tina and I went to her house (this was Wednesday).
Her family mentioned that they were going to be building an arch and an afombra (carpet thing)… they failed to mention that they were the starting point for the procession that day and that they were expecting 75 people for lunch before the procession started the next day. Wednesday night was marked with a lot of late night projects. Tina and I pulled apart, peeled, or tore a fair number of vegetables… most of which I have never seen before. The women cut carrots like crazy and prepared 10 live chickens worth of meat.
When the men came back from “the costa” (aka the warm lowlands), they had a bunch of palm branches and tropical fruits and began assembling an arch outside made out of bamboo and their coastal finds. With some harrowing maneuvers with a ladder strapped together and a group of friends holding the poor chap who is on the ladder up, the giant arch was assembled. Then, in the middle of all this, some “Judios” (Jews) came running down the street. They were a pack of guys who I guess go door to door every Wednesday night of Semana Santa asking for food and drinks. We threw candy and bananas at them… it was hilarious. And only the beginning of the randomness.
Maundy Thursday
The random actions continued. I got up in the morning, anxious to see if the “sketchily?” hung arch was still in the air. It was and looked almost secure. Quite impressive. Then, as I made my way to go back inside, a random guy in costume came riding on his horse past the house. I looked at Tina’s dad confusedly, “Centurion” he replied. Of course. After the centurion, we went inside to continue the kitchen preparations. Then, we heard a lot of sirens and stuff… looking out the door, there was no less than a running race! Huh?!?! That’s in the Bible? It was led and followed by ambulances (hence the sirens). No one could really answer my questions about that activity. It’s okay… I like having questions.
As the 1:00 time marker for the procession neared, we began building the family’s afombra. It was fun to be a part of it! We made a natural one from pine needles, sticky plant things, and a lot of flowers. It was really fun and gorgeous.
As 1:00 official time came and 1:00 Guatemala time approached, the marching band appeared as well as many dedicated people who were instrumental in the procession. Some were working on the shrines while others were deeply in prayer to them. 
As the band was playing (practicing?), a group of Roman soldiers appeared, walking down the road in full costume. They paid their tribute to Jesus and then began reinacting the first stage of the cross: Jesus being condemned. Then, the soldiers led the procession followed by a large float of an angel, a large float of Jesus, the marching band, a large float of Mary, and all of us dressed in traditional clothing followed by a pickup with a giant old school sound system. Along the way, we walked (painfully) slow and stopped every 100 meters or so to have another station being played out. People came on horses, at one point, Judas and Jesus and the disciples came and acted out the betrayal,... it was really cool (in the sad, holy week way). After 2 or so hours, we got to the church where they had a service for Maunday Thursday. The priest led the service and they reenacted the washing of the disciples feet as well as the last supper. After the service, we went outside and they began reenacting court with Herod and Pilate and all the disciples and soldiers. It was a super powerful 6 hour long church service/festivities.
Good Friday
Called Viernes Santo, it’s quite possibly the biggest holiday all year. The busses were not running (this is shocking) and so everyone, unless they have a car, stays where they’re at. We had a lazy, cleaning morning recovering from the day before. Then, just when we thought we were going to be at the house all day, Tina’s parents said, “there’s something really beautiful in the “Pueblo”. So, we jumped in the truck and crossed the highway to Cantel.
There, the Judios and Centurions were having a battle. It involved them running around the blocks at times, horses, lots of young men, and of course, amazing costumes. It seemed like everyone from Cantel was out… people sitting on partially constructed buildings, standing on stools, and doing whatever they could to watch this hour+ long battle. I ran into my future host mom (later blog) and she said her son was on a horse. She was nervous for very good reasons. The horses eventually started going crazy and bucked off a centurion as well as kicked a Jew. Eventually the Jews won. There was an announcer but I couldn’t understand him… I’m not sure if anyone could with all the noise and the quality of the old school sound system. So, overall, it was a bit whacky. But I like whacky. And I like energy.
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| Using the medium of ice cream cones and a bit of potted grass |
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| Sawdust with footprints! |
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| Hand "painted" sawdust of Jesus giving a hug |
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| This entire one was made out of fruits and veggies |
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| And the fountain worked! |
Then there was the procession itself – short but powerful. It started with the poor soul who pushed the generator that was on less than efficient wheels. After him were cross and candle carrying people and men dressed in black on the sides also carrying candles as well as incense. Then, there was the (lit) float of Jesus in a casket and angels. Then came the choir and band (same one from Thursday), and then Mary on another float, also lit (and bearing another poor soul pushing a generator). Following Mary was all the women. Watching this go by was sobering and gorgeous and inspirational. It, as well as the afombras that were destroyed by it, showed me the beauty of humanity and traditions; wow.
Sabado de Gloria
Saturday has a great tradition that I have never thought of: everyone goes to the pool! Or the coast! Or somewhere really nice. We went to the pool in la costa. I swear that everyone and their grandmother was there (we were included in that)… including at least one of my students who had the pleasure of watching me sit in a gross, child-filled thermal pool (therefore the temperature of taking a bath in pee) in my clothes because this “let’s go to pool for Easter” tradition was not communicated to me earlier. It was really fun though; an interesting contrast to the day before.
Easter itself
Not quite as big of a deal. I went back to the city Saturday night with the hopes of going to English-speaking church Sunday morning. Kyra and I didn’t check service times… woops… so we then just walked around the city. With the exception of a few small processions and fairly crowded churches, not much was different from the normal day, but it was still gorgeous.
Overall, this past Semana Santa has been gorgeous. Absolutely amazing.
I’m speechless.
And have been incredibly inspired by all the prayer.
More pictures can be found at www.picasaweb.google.com/curleske
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