Dia De Los Santos

My host sister... ella esta un poca loca

Within a week of moving in with my new family, I have developed three good friends (they are all giggling in my room as I write, sitting on my bed and coloring while the two eldest are having a competition to see who can give me the most pieces of art... definitely not my goal when I gave them crayons, but it’s fun to see what they come up with!) and two equally awesome friends, the parents, who are willing to coach me in Spanish and invite me into their family.  Also within moving, I have scored myself a family vacation… to WARMTH! 

The volcanoes near San Felipe

We spent this past weekend in San Felipe, where my host dad's family lives.  As we drove there, I watched the thermometer on the car raise and I grinned… I don’t mind the cold but I really enjoy the heat.  We were going for three days/two nights to visit the family, celebrate his birthday, and celebrate Dia de Los Santos. 

Dia de Los Santos really surprised me.  It is a holiday unlike anything I can describe in US terms… it’s kind of like the meaning of Memorial Day meeting the 4^th of July, Labor Day, and Halloween all in one…  kind of.  You see, the holiday is to celebrate those who have died.  Sad, right?  Well, not really. 

Cemeteries in Guatemala are naturally more colorful and entertaining than cemeteries in the States.  Families have their own “Casitas” (small houses) where the family members each have a place.  When more people die, you simply build the casita higher so it can hold everyone (this is what happens in casas (regular houses) when people are born or have more money as well…).  At least, this is what the middle class does.  I was told that the public cemetery has an area for the people with less money as well, but we did not visit over there.  The “rich people” have a private cemetery above the public and it is slightly reminiscent of a country club for coffins equipped with a private church, marble, and pretty views of the city and cemetery.  The cemeteries are naturally pretty with all the colors, but on November 1^st, it gets even more interesting!

First of all, Dia de los Santos celebrates the people in the cemetery.  It is an obligation/honor/opportunity to visit all relatives and bring them flowers.  Before we left Xela, my family went to the cemeteries where different relatives are buried to drop off flowers.  Sunday, after church, we went to the private cemetery to put flowers at my host mom’s grave.  Then, Monday, we went to the cemetery in San Felipe to put flowers at their son’s and my host dad’s grandpa’s grave, as well as a distant relative.  All these visits were solemn in that we were respecting those who have passed on, but they weren’t depressing, sad, or even lamenting.  It’s more like they treat it as a fact of life that’s not great but not worth the tears to overtly lament.  Some people, like my family, remember with flowers.  Others, use tons of decorations, papers, flowers, and other objects to celebrate those they have lost.  It is so pretty!

Fruit cart going down the cemetery paths

Clowns in front of a casita

Besides simply giving tribute to the graves, there is almost some sort of fiesta.  There were food carts, clowns, and my host cousin who walked down with us in late morning, returned around dinner time completely drunk from all the beer that was being sold throughout at all the little food stations.  I already knew that Guatemalans knew how to have fun from simple ingredients, but this was pretty impressive.

I’m was really surprised, mostly, by how a national holiday can be honored, celebrated, and held for the dead and their families.  It is a day that has a solemn pretense but a joyful way of celebrating.  The balance is beautiful.  

 After visiting the cemetery, the family and I headed to the pool to beat the heat.  I got to teach them some swimming and I am convinced that, although they don't have much experience now, they will be pros by the end of the year.  While we were kicking and floating, it reminded me that, although I came to teach, I am learning a lot more.  This is a country of beautiful traditions, people, and stories that we all can learn from.

We learned to blow bubbles!

My host mom and oldest host sister